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Wind chill, warm hands and telemagenta Speed Machines.

Reckless abandon
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wind
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chill

Let’s talk about wind chill.  When you ride a bike, you create wind and, on a cold day, that results in wind chill, which means immobile hands and numb feet.

It’s January.  You’re stir crazy.  It’s cold but the roads are clear and dry.  And you’re thoroughly jazzed about the new telemagenta HP Velotechnik Speed Machine you bought yourself for [insert your winter gift-giving holiday here] from New York City Recumbent Supply :-).

You put on your coat and hat and gloves and head out for an early morning ride to Nyack.  Eventually, the day’s high will be 25 degrees fahrenheit but it’s 15 deg. F when you hit the George Washington Bridge at 7am.  You warm your fingers in your arm pits, first the right hand in the left arm pit, then the left hand in the right pit.  At this point you’re still impressed with yourself; it’s amazing what you’ll do for a muffin.

Let’s pretend there’s no west wind, and no runners or walkers or slow cyclists weaving all over the place, so you’re making time, hitting 20 mph up the west side bikeway to the bridge.  With the chill and your early morning start, you’re feeling fast, and hardcore and, frankly, a tiny bit cold.  Well, no wonder.  That 15 deg. F temperature with a headwind of 20 mph results in a wind chill of -2 deg. F.

You’re wearing warm clothes, of course.  On the way there, as you ride up the hills of Henry Hudson Dr., you’re slowing to a very bent-like 5 mph (15 F at 5 mph = 7 deg. F wind chill).  You get warm, even a bit sweaty.  That’s bad.  Moisture compromises your insulating layers.  And you really don’t want sweat freezing on your face, but it’s too late to stop sweating now.

As you ride towards State Line, you hit some good downhills.  This is the fun part.  Usually.  How fast does this Speed Machine go?  Who cares what Robert said about staying within safe speeds.  It’s your bike now and you decide to push it.  40…45…50 mph.  Cool?  More than.  It’s frigid.  15 F at 50 mph = -10 deg. wind chill.  The thrill only lasts a minute and that’s a good thing because now you’re really frickin’ cold.  You can barely move your hands, you can’t feel your feet, and your most prized possession (not the bike) has shrinkaged to the point that it’s inside out.  The women’s equivalent, whatever it is, is doing the women’s equivalent, whatever that is, probably something a lot more sensible.

You begin to wish you were in a car.  Or maybe not.  At the bare minimum you begin to wish you had a fairing and a pair of windproof underwear.  But for now you’ll settle for a scone and hot chocolate in Piermont.  Eventually, you warm up.  You go back outside and start riding back, stopping at the police station and again at the ferry terminal to warm up.  This is beginning to sort of suck.  You can hardly wait to brag about your misery on Facebook.

How could you have dressed for this?  Do you dress for the 15 F temps when you first walk out the door?  The -2 F wind chill of your cruising speed?  The -10 degrees that freeze your fingers beyond any chance of rewarming as you ride?  Or the 7 deg. temps so you don’t sweat on the hills?  Isn’t the idea that you get warmer as you move?

Some people say layers and lots of zippers so you can vent as you get hot.  I tend to believe in vapor barriers which at least prevent sweat from compromising your insulating layers.  Winter backpackers have told me they wear windproof layers over bare legs.

Currently, this is what I’m trying (without using a fairing).  Wearing windproof layers, like rain gear, I dress for the wind chill I predict I’ll experience most of the time with the ability to vent as much as possible as my activity generates warmth.  Zippers must be operable with one hand.  Controlling how the wind flows across my skin is key to staying warm or cool, so a ventable outer windproof layer is important.

Then, since my feet and hands are so vulnerable to wind chill on a recumbent, I try to keep them as warm as possible under the theory that, generally speaking, they can never be too warm (at least not for me).  I do everything I can to windproof them.  On my feet the first layer is a vapor barrier, then warm socks (or neoprene socks), then insulated winter boots.  If it’s not too horribly cold, I’m okay with neoprene socks and bike shoes but, generally, I give up on comfortably* using clipless pedals till the warmer weather.  (*I’ll go out and uncomfortably ride with cold feet for an hour or so with clipless pedals, but not much more than that.  I’d like to preserve the nerves in my feet.)

On my hands, I’m currently doing this if it’s very cold.  First layer, vapor barrier.  (I use cheap latex gloves till they tear.)  Then 3mm neoprene glacier gloves.  Then windproof/waterproof shell mittens.  I’m trying to maintain a layer of dry insulating air between each layer of clothing.  I was disappointed to discover that glacier gloves alone were not good enough (for me) at windchills of about 17 F.  Adding the shell mittens made a huge difference.

If it’s a bit warmer and I want some dexterity, for example so I can handle a bike lock and key, I’ll start with the latex glove vapor barriers, then add glove liners, and then a pair of Outdoor Research Storm Tracker gloves.  I wouldn’t hesitate to put a shell mitten over this.  The advantage to this is I can remove the bulkier layers without exposing my hands for even a moment to cold air and the cold metal of the lock.

I have a metal watch.  I remove it on cold days because it conducts the cold directly to my skin.  When I do wear it, I’ve noticed that my watch hand gets colder than my non-watch hand.  If I feel I must wear a watch, I’ll wear it on top of a base layer.  This also makes it easier to look at.

Any metal on the bike will make you cold, so it also helps to cover the metal brake levers with insulating tape.  An extra layer of handlebar tape or neoprene or foam around the handlebar grips will help a lot too.

Getting deeper into wind chill.

What is Wind Chill Temperature?
It is the temperature it “feels like” outside and is based on the rate of heat loss from exposed skin caused by the effects of wind and cold. As the wind increases, the body is cooled at a faster rate causing the skin temperature to drop. Wind Chill does not impact inanimate objects like car radiators and exposed water pipes, because these objects cannot cool below the actual air temperature.

On November 1, 2001, the National Weather Service implemented a new Wind Chill Temperature (WCT) index for the 2001/2002 winter season, designed to more accurately calculate how cold air feels on human skin. The former index used by the United States and Canada was based on 1945 research of Antarctic explorers Siple and Passel. They measured the cooling rate of water in a container hanging from a tall pole outside. A container of water will freeze faster than flesh. As a result, the previous wind chill index underestimated the time to freezing and overestimated the chilling effect of the wind. The new index is based on heat loss from exposed skin and was tested on human subjects.

For the first time, the new Wind Chill Chart includes a frostbite indicator, showing the points where temperature, wind speed and exposure time will produce frostbite on humans. The chart above includes three shaded areas of frostbite danger. Each shaded area shows how long (30,10 and 5 minutes) a person can be exposed before frostbite develops. For example, a temperature of 0°F and a wind speed of 15 mph will produce a wind chill temperature of -19°F. Under these conditions, exposed skin can freeze in 30 minutes.

The NWS will inform you when Wind Chill conditions reach critical thresholds. A Wind Chill Warning is issued when wind chill temperatures are life threatening. A Wind Chill Advisory is issued when wind chill
temperatures are potentially hazardous.

What is Frostbite?

Frostbite is an injury to the body caused by freezing body tissue. The most susceptible parts of the body are the extremities such as fingers, toes, ear lobes, or the tip of the nose Symptoms include a loss of feeling in the extremity and a white or pale appearance. Medical attention is needed immediately for frostbite. The area should be SLOWLY re-warmed.

What is Hypothermia?
Hypothermia is abnormally low body temperature (below 95 degrees Fahrenheit). Warning signs include uncontrollable shivering, memory loss, disorientation, incoherence, slurred speech, drowsiness, and apparent exhaustion. Medical attention is needed immediately. If it is not available, begin warming the body SLOWLY.

Tips on how to dress during cold weather.
– Wear layers of loose-fitting, lightweight, warm clothing. Trapped air between the layers will insulate you. Outer garments should be tightly woven, water repellent, and hooded.
– Wear a hat, because 40% of your body heat can be lost from your head.
– Cover your mouth to protect your lungs from extreme cold.
– Mittens, snug at the wrist, are better than gloves.
– Try to stay dry and out of the wind.
– Keep your face dry, especially around the nose and mouth.
– Remove metal objects from your body, such as watches, bracelets, jewelry. Metal conducts cold onto and into your skin.

National Weather Service Wind Chill web page

Environment Canada’s Wind Chill web page

[Source: National Weather Service (U.S.A.)]

Have fun and stay warm,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

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New Jersey Transit, recumbents on board

A customer wrote me:”Any knowledge about if New Jersey Transit will allow it [an HP Velotechnik Grasshopper fx] on the train?”

To summarize, as of now, standard frame bikes are permitted on NJT.  “Collapsible” bikes are permitted.  It appears that non-collapsible non-standard frame (recumbent?) bikes are not permitted.  It appears that a folded Grasshopper fx is permitted as would be a collapsed Cruzbike Quest, however individual conductors have discretion.  It appears that a Cruzbike is a thingamajig and not a bicycle.

NOTE: The rules may change over time. If you have expert knowledge or personal experience with NJ Transit that is at variance with what I’ve written here, please send me a comment with specifics, if possible, to help me keep this blog entry current.

Here are the current NJ Transit rules.  Also copied below.  Verify the current rules at the NJT website.  This blog page does not track the current rules in real time and may be out of date when you travel.

Before all else, what is a bike?

Here is NJ Transit’s definition of a bicycle, in case you weren’t sure if you were riding one:

39:4-14.5 Definition

“Bicycle” means any two wheeled vehicle having a rear drive which is solely human powered and having a seat height of 25 inches or greater when the seat is in the lowest adjustable position.

Source: http://www.state.nj.us/transportation/commuter/bike/regulations.shtm

 

Bicycles on Trains (as of May 22, 2013)

– Collapsible bicycles are permitted on all NJ TRANSIT trains at all times.

– Standard-frame bicycles are permitted on many NJ TRANSIT trains as described below:
. On weekdays – Bicycles are permitted on all weekday trains on all lines except inbound trains that end in Hoboken, Newark or New York between 6 a.m. and 10 a.m. and outbound trains that originate in Hoboken, Newark or New York between 4 p.m. and 7 p.m. These trains will be designated by a bicycle symbol in public timetables. Trains on which bicycles are permitted may accommodate up to 2 bicycles on each single-level rail car and up to 8 bicycles on each multilevel rail car subject to crowding or the accessibility needs of other customers.

. On weekends – Bicycles are permitted on all weekend Raritan Valley, Gladstone, Montclair-Boonton, Main, Bergen County, Pascack Valley, Port Jervis, and Atlantic City Line trains. These trains will be designated bike trains and will accommodate up to 12 bicycles per train. Larger groups may be accommodated with advance reservations by calling our Group Sales Department at 973-491-7220. Bicycles are also permitted on all Northeast Corridor, North Jersey Coast Line and Morristown Line trains with the exception of trains ending in New York between 9 a.m. and 12 p.m. and trains originating in New York between 5 p.m. and 8 p.m. Trains on which bicycles are permitted may accommodate up to 2 bicycles on each single-level rail car and up to 8 bicycles on each multilevel rail car subject to crowding or the accessibility needs of other customers.

. On holidays and business days before holidays – Bicycles are not permitted on trains (with the exception of the Atlantic City Line) on New Year’s Day, Martin Luther King Jr. Day, Presidents’ Day, Memorial Day, Independence Day, Labor Day, Thanksgiving Day, day after Thanksgiving, Sunday after Thanksgiving and Christmas Day. Bicycles are not permitted on the day before Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur, but are permitted on the holidays themselves.

. Other times – Bicycles are not permitted on substitute bus service during rail service outages.

When I first wrote this entry, the published rules were unclear as it relates to recumbent bikes.  At that time, one conductor told me that recumbents are fine and another told me they were not.  Another told me that all bikes were prohibited on rush hour trains (I hadn’t realized I was on one) and that particular conductor said he’d have to “let me off” at the next station, about 70 miles from where I had intended to start my weekend bike camping trip.  (What?  Please say you don’t mean it!)  Fortunately, I had a Grasshopper fx folding recumbent and he let me proceed as long as I folded it and stowed it out of the way.

Neile Weissman, a NY Cycle Club ride leader and bent rider, has worked hard to make it possible for cyclists to take bikes on NJ Transit.  Still, individual conductors have a great deal of discretion.

The current rules clearly give conductors the right to bar ‘bent riders from taking their bikes on NJT.  You can not — and should not — argue with the conductors.  If you want to change the rules, then you need to actively advocate for better ‘bent access.

Go to Port Authority board meetings and speak during the public comment period for increased bicycle access. You can contact New Jersey Bike and Walk Coalition if you would like assistance in preparing a statement or would like other advice on presenting at a Port Authority board meeting. Personal stories make very compelling testimony. (By the way, the people who attend these meetings can be quite interesting. It is time well spent.)
The schedule for the Port Authority’s board meetings is here:
http://www.panynj.gov/corporate-information/schedule-upcoming-board-meetings.html

General guidelines for taking your recumbent bike on any train in the region.

Make sure you have a bungie cord or rope to secure your bike.  Cover the chain ring.  If you must take transit, take a short wheelbase ‘bent.  Even better if it folds.  Do what the “nice” conductor says and always be cooperative and polite, even if he or she tells you to take your bike off the train.  It’s understandable if you don’t like it, but on-board is not the time or place to try and make a stand, and your issue isn’t with the conductor anyway.  Take it up with the people in the NJT office…politely.  Give them every reason to say “yes.”

Please try and remember that when you’re riding a ‘bent, you’re representing all bent riders.  If you’re polite and cooperative, you make us all look good and that may be one of the best pathways for us to gain better access on transit.  If you’re something other than polite, you’re ruining things for yourself and everyone else.

If you have a recent story about taking your ‘bent on NJT which may help others negotiate the system, please send it to me as a “comment” on this entry.

Have fun, stay healthy, and maybe get a folding bent,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

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HP Velotechnik: New Scorpion fs

HP Velotechnik has unveiled a new design for the Scorpion fs: 26″ rear wheel, 20″ wheels front.  Still fully suspended.  Still the world’s best fully-suspended trike.

Watch the movie.

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

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HP Velotechnik Gekko fx in black

Thought you’d enjoy seeing this, a custom HP Velotechnik Gekko fx with black matte paint, carbon fiber front boom and fenders, SON dynohub with B&M IQ Fly, 81-speed Shimano XT/SRAM DualDrive drivetrain, Avid BB7 disk brakes, rear rack…and more.

The result?  It’s light, fast, handles like a dream, folds into a tiny package and is still as practical as all get out.

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

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Of course recumbents do hills.

Standard frame (or “diamond frame”) riders often ask me how recumbents are on hills.  (Answer: “You pedal up them.”)  Yes, there is the disadvantage that you can’t stand on the pedals, but I don’t need to since I have mountain bike gearing.  And on those steepest hills, where I’d stand up and power through on a standard frame bike, on a bent I just sit and power through.  Same thing.  When I started riding a bent, I admit I’d sometimes have to walk up a hill.  I didn’t yet have a fine sense of balance or strong “recumbent muscles.”  But I haven’t had to walk up a hill in years.  I just ride up.

I was thinking about this the other day after riding through Harriman State Park, from Garrison to Camp Nawakwa on Lake Sebago and back again to Garrison.  We had taken the train up to Garrison and started riding from there.  It’s a 46-mile round trip that begins with about 15 miles of steady climbing, without much more than a few yards of level road, then gives you a steep down, a long uphill false flat, more hills than I can bother remembering, and then you hit Lake Sebago.  The camp’s road is then a series of very steep un-graded hills, more up than down.  On the way back, reverse it.  Lots of down, some up, a long and steep uphill climb, and one very, very long downhill coast on a windy road with frequent blind turns where your brakes are very much your best friend.

The next day, no soreness.  Wow.  That’s a recumbent for you.

What were we riding?  There was an HP Velotechnik Grasshopper fx and a Street Machine Gte, with racks, fenders, and lighting systems.  They’re simply the easiest for throwing on a couple panniers for a day-ride and it’s always welcome to have the folding Grasshopper when taking the train.

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

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Weighing the options on an HP Velotechnik

HP Velotechnik Carbon Fiber Boom

Recently, a customer asked me what we could do to make an HP Velotechnik Grasshopper fx a bit lighter, using the options readily offered.  We looked at the weight difference for the front fork (with shocks), seats, rear shock and front boom.  For the suspended front fork and rear shocks, there are improvements in performance as well as differences in weight.

From the following, not including the front boom with/without derailer mast, if we chose the lightest option, we could lessen the bike weight by 28.93 oz (1.81 lbs).

Front Boom with or without derailer mast
If you get a Rohloff Speed Drive or SRAM Dual Drive, choose the aluminum boom without the derailer mast for weight savings at no additional cost.  Sorry, but I don’t have two unmounted booms on hand at this time to compare the weights, but I’d give it two to three ounces.

Seats
Body Link w/ foam pad – 1,885 gms / 66.5 oz
Ergo Mesh – 2,055 gms / 72.5 oz
__Difference: 170 gms / 6.0 oz

Front Fork with Shock
Spinner Grind 2 AL (better performance) – 1,610 g / 56.79 oz
__Difference from standard front fork and shock: 250 gms / 8.82 oz
Meks SASO Carbon AC (best performance) – 1,710 g / 60.32 oz
__Difference from standard front fork and shock: 150 gms / 5.29 oz
Spinner Grind 2 (standard, good performance) – 1,860 gms / 65.61 oz

Rear Shocks
DT Swiss XM 180 Air Shock (best performance) – 172 g /  6.07 oz
DNM DV-22 (Standard, good performance) – 400 g / 14.11 oz
__Difference: 228 g / 8.04 oz

Front Boom
Carbon Fiber front boom (lightest):
__Difference from standard boom: 170 gms / 6.07 oz

If one were to choose the options in terms of the most weight savings for the cost, the order would be:
1 – tied) Front boom without derailer mast
1 – tied) Body Link seat
2) Spinner Grind 2 AL
3) Carbon Fiber front boom
4) DT Swiss air shock (but man! that DT Swiss air shock is awfully sweet)

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

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HP Velotechnik Speed Machine – Cool Bike

HP Velotechnik’s hotrod: the Speed Machine

I’m now stocking an HP Velotechnik Speed Machine (abbreviated here as “SPM”) for demo rides.  I wasn’t sure what to expect since, at the “speed” end of the market, there is so much competition and clamoring for the bragging rights for “the fastest bike.”  The Cruzbike Silvio and Vendetta are clearly special.  So, why bring in a Speed Machine?

So far, after a few training rides, I must say I’m rather impressed.  It’s a cool bike, just as we can always expect from HP Velotechnik.  Before it arrived, I anticipated something like a Street Machine Gte, just lower-slung, but it’s really a whole new vehicle, as different from the Street Machine as is the Grasshopper fx.

First of all, regarding aerodynamics, the leg, body and head positions are in the “typical” range for racers, whether high, medium or low — very flat and layed back.  What is special is that the frame is extremely stiff, straight and responsive, as we expect from HP Velotechnik, and the frame design allows great power transfer to the wheels.  Till now, I’ve believed unsuspended racers would be lighter, faster and more responsive, but the Speed Machine handles beautifully with the added benefit that, with the suspension, it hugs the road even when the pavement is rough.  Frankly, I feel a lot more comfortable with full-suspension because, when I’m traveling at high speeds, the inevitable unforeseen bump in the road doesn’t throw the bike off the ground or force me to veer into traffic.

The build I have here is fitted with the Concept front suspension, the DT Swiss air shock, Shimano XT hydraulic disk brakes, aero bars, the standard Alex wheel set, and the upgraded XT drivetrain.  Long and short, it’s light, responsive, and reminds me a bit of a standard frame road race bike in the way that the faster you’re riding, the better it seems to handle.

I’ve seen a review of the Speed Machine somewhere on the internet that was written by a fellow who seems to have sparse knowledge about bikes and equally sparse experience with the Speed Machine.  Oddly, this guy once contacted me personally to challenge my admiration for HP Velotechnik engineering but then didn’t reply after I pointed out the mistakes in his review.  Among his absurd comments, he criticizes the Speed Machine’s front shock as being comparable to that used in Walmart bikes (which may tell us something about the kind of bikes he rides).  If you’ve seen that review and have been negatively swayed by it, be assured that there is no remote resemblance between HP Velotechnik’s over-sized Concept suspension fork, with steel spring, adjustable dampening and 50 mm of travel, and your average — or below average — bicycle front suspension, least of all a typical Walmart bike.  The SPM’s front fork is beautifully designed, both internally and externally, and is truly worthy of the HP Velotechnik reputation.  And, for the record, I do actually have the dubious honor of knowing something about Walmart bikes.  In early 2013, I was part of a 3-person team who competed in an adventure race in Virginia, one leg of which was on a Walmart bike with front suspension.  In addition, I did the mechanical work before the race to try and whip the bike into shape.  Why, for Pete’s sake, did I race on a Walmart bike?  Because our team’s bike had been stolen, and it was the night before the race, and we weren’t willing to spend more than $200 bucks on a replacement that we were going to leave behind with our Virginia teammate.  At any rate, I assure you, as much as I wished otherwise while I was riding it, the front suspension of a Walmart bike has NO resemblance to the suspension on a Speed Machine.  (Our team came in seventh place, by the way.)

A word about the seat angle: while the deepest seat recline is 25 degrees (which is very flat and aero), the seat can be adjusted up to 35 degrees, which is the same as the “medium” setting on a Street Machine Gte or Grasshopper fx.  In other words, this “speed” bike — for racing or randonneuring — becomes a highly aerodynamic touring machine by simply changing the seat angle (which takes 5 seconds) and adding racks, fenders, panniers and light kits, which it is built to accept easily and quickly.  Looking at it another way, with the fully suspended build, we have a very nice, fast and aero touring machine that can be easily stripped down and turned into a weekend racer.

I’m very excited about this bike and I think it provides a great new option for the city rider who is limited in the number of bikes he or she can fit into their small space at home.  Many bent riders seem to own a folding bike and two or three bents.  We usually make hard choices between a bent for fast club rides, one for commuting and grocery runs, one for long distance trips, one for off-road, one for pavement, one for folding and taking on the train, etc.

Speed Machine set up for touring. Note that the rider’s line of sight is clear
and unhindered by his feet. Darn, that’s a nice set-up.

This summer, I’m trying to find time to go through the Adirondacks and Green Mountains using the Adventure Cycling routes.  Now that I’ve put a few miles on it, I am seriously considering taking a Speed Machine.  While I still need to resolve the issue of taking a non-folding bike on Amtrak or a bus, and whether the high foot position will cause “hot foot” issues — which I’m prone to have, I think it may be nice to use a highly aero machine like the Speed Machine for the route.  Given how little time I have for the trip — I won’t know if I can get away from work till a week before the trip — it may be nice to be a little more aero and add a few miles an hour or so to my touring pace and see if I can’t complete the 800-mile route a day or two (or three?) faster than I’d ordinarily plan.  We shall see.

Note, a year later:
I’m a working stiff — if not an over-worked stiff — which means I don’t get to just go out and ride as much as I’d like.  I ride a beater-bent every day to get around town, but the demo Speed Machine sits here clean, used mostly for demos.  I didn’t have time to take it up to the Adirondacks last fall to test it as a fast tourer; I intend to try again this July.  However, over the past ten days I’ve taken it out three times for quick 25-mile training rides in Prospect Park as a mid-day break; I also rode it recently on an 80-mile ride with the NY Cycle Club.  I wanted to remind myself what it feels like and compare it to the Cruzbike Silvio.  If I’m looking for the highest sans-fairing speeds, which do I prefer?  Also, I wanted to remind myself again of the shock absorption characteristics of the Concept 2 fork.  How low do I feel in traffic on the SPM?  Too low?  How is the low speed turning and tight navigating around people, dogs and curbs?  How much speed do I lose on the uphills compared to a Silvio?  How does it handle at 35 mph?  How do I feel about the 25-35 degree recline of the seat, given how accustomed I’ve become to 35-45 degree reclines?

And I still really love it.  Every time I’ve come back from a ride, I’m so happy with the speed and handling, and the way it feels on city streets and in traffic.  Yes, my head height is lower than it is on a Street Machine or Silvio, but I don’t feel terribly vulnerable.  I have good eye contact with drivers of ordinary cars.  As I’d do on any bike, I’m extremely cautious around trucks and vans.  There’s a speed sacrifice on the uphills and flats, compared to a Silvio, but I get some of that back on the downhills.  I love the aerodynamics when a headwind is blowing.  There remains the benefit of the relaxed upper body compared to a Silvio, so, over all, I feel less end-of-ride tiredness.  But there’s that quality I love in all HP Velotechniks: the way the bike behaves when you’re going fast and hit unexpected bumps.  This is simply a great fully suspended machine.

If I wasn’t so concerned with keeping it clean and in low-mileage condition, the Speed Machine could easily become my favorite bike for “vacation riding” — for my non-commuting bike time — which is basically training and touring with remnants of a need-for-speed.  It’s a really cool machine that can truly serve many purposes: speed, touring and commuting.

The fast-‘bent market segment is very cluttered and noisy though, which may cause the SPM to get lost.  Also, at 30 lbs. — for the stock build that will accept a 286 lb payload (!) — prospective riders may view it as heavier than some other bikes in its performance/price range (which generally have lower payloads).

It’s a cliche that inexperienced riders are preoccupied with bike weight because it is an easy number to compare without understanding what has been sacrificed — or never included — to achieve a light weight.  When bike shopping, we’re always comparing apples (Granny Smith to Empire) and oranges (Navels and Valencias). 16 ounces of quality that results from good analysis and engineering does not equal to 16 ounces of who-knows-what coming from a bike enthusiast using a shareware CAD program and gut instinct.  Do riders understand the benefits of an oversized main tube and head tube?  Are we willing to accept that shocks are vital for safely handling high-speeds?  Do riders readily understand a list of technical specs?  Or understand that a build specced to support a 286 lb payload might be significantly lightened to suit a 170 lb rider?  (Hint: buy the SPM as a framekit, with the front fork, and then build it with your favorite components and wheels.)

It’s an interesting and complex business.  Ultimately, the more I ride and work on HP Velotechniks, the more I like them.  And the Speed Machine, it may be one of those things “of beauty [which are] a joy for ever” (Keats).

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

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Scorpion fs: a thing of beauty is a joy forever.

Say no more.

Stay healthy and enjoy life a little,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

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Smoothing out those #%&! rough roads.

Between my place and Prospect Park, there is currently 400 meters of construction that will eventually result in a beautiful separated bike lane. This project was unfunded for some 20 years, till now, and has included laying new pipes, and piloting around a construction robot doing I don’t know what, and generally digging up a road that used to be fairly smooth by New York City standards.  As it is now, with the temporary patch jobs they do each time they finish a parcel of work, it’s the roughest #%&! road you can imagine.  Take a washboard road, add 50 speed bumps of all sizes and shapes, intersperse each speed bump with a pothole or two, throw on some gravel and rocks, and put it on an incline, and you’ve very nearly got this road (at this time).

Needless to say, I avoid it when I can, but it’s the shortest route to The Park.  A bad road is unpleasant on a standard frame bike, but with an SF, you can post (raise yourself off the seat).  On a bent, you can’t.  So, every few days, I’m reminded of what I like about fully-suspended recumbents or — if I’m riding an unsuspended bent — what I might have done to make this stretch more comfy.

Here are a few tips for smoothing out your own local worst road.

1. Full-suspension.  If you’re shopping anew, consider full-suspension recumbent bikes or trikes.  If you know you’ll be on bad roads, there’s no replacing the safety and comfort of keeping all wheels — whether two or three — in contact with the road at all times.
2. Steel is real.  Favor steel recumbents over (non-suspended) aluminum bents. While a steel frame can’t absorb potholes, it does have a marvelous capacity to absorb road vibration and this goes a long way towards improving control on bad roads.
3. Fat tires, baby.  Speaking personally, 1.5″-wide tires are my minimum for city tires and I like them at low pressure.  My favorite?  Schwalbe Big Apples. These are “balloon” tires.  They’re relatively light, flat resistant, grippy, have low rolling resistance, can run as low as 35 psi, and provide “built in” shock absorption.
4. Big tires, baby. 26″ wheels roll over the rough stuff better than 20″ wheels.  I realize that means we’re talking about high-racers and there are reasons why high racers are sub-optimal in the city, but there’s no getting around the benefit of big wheels.  If you decide to look at this solution, check out a Cruzbike Sofrider or Cruzbike Quest: big wheels without the typical high-racer’s seat slope.
5. Sling mesh seats.  While I love hard-shell seats for climbing hills, a sling mesh seat is comfort factorial on bad roads.

Would I put it all together?  Say, a fully-suspended HP Velotechnik Street Machine Gte or Scorpion fs, with Big Apple tires and an Ergo Mesh seat?  Or a dual-suspension Cruzbike Sofrider with 26×2.15″ Big Apples?  Yeah, I’d consider it.  At some point it may become overkill, but I’m not sure we’ve yet reached that point.

Stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

Categories
Uncategorized

Santa’s new sleigh.

From our friends at HP Velotechnik.  That looks like a Scorpion fs.

Best,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2011 Robert Matson