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Fender installation, SWB ‘bent

Interested in a few tips on installing fenders on a SWB ‘bents?

(Photo shows the SKS fender on the HP Velotechnik Grasshopper fx.  Note that there is a “break away” connector located where the stays attach to the frame, rubber end caps on the stays, and about one inch of slack so fenders may be moved further out, if required.)

A friend writes:

> Got my fenders today and promptly installed them. Go me. 🙂
> The stays are a bit long … would be nice to shorten them a bit. Do you have any ideas or tools for
> shortening them? I looked through my toolbox and couldn’t find anything that would do the trick. hmpf.

Meet your friend, the hacksaw (or bolt trimmer).  A finished bike would ideally have trimmed fender stays with end caps.

That said, some people prefer not to cut the stays if they can get away with it — if they do not get in the way or catch on anything.  This allows one to retain flexibility for alternative set ups.

A little advice that you may already know, but it’s important: be sure to leave a good amount of clearance between the fender and tire.  This is so nothing typical — small stone, bit of sticky trash, leaves with twigs — can easily lodge in there and jam the wheel.  I like to leave about an inch — about a penny’s diameter — between the tire surface and the fender.  For me, fall leaves and stones are the most common catch (see photo. Shown: HP Velotechnik Grasshopper fx).

Also, consider how much “slack” to leave at the tips of the stays for future adjustments, in case one day you install fatter tires, for example.  If you decide to do this, you need not leave a lot.  Say you have 1.35″ tires now on a Volae Century.  2″ is the max tire width you’re likely to use on a Century (though a 2″ tire may not be fully covered by the fenders), so an inch — that penny’s diameter again — of slack is good (See photo at top of entry.)

Side note:
The advice here relates to fenders that allow easy length adjustments. There are also common fender designs that use stays in the shape of a “shepherd’s crook” (see drawing).  Other common designs have a fixed length rod and a plastic end piece that screws onto the fender.

These types of designs don’t allow easy adjustment for clearance but do allow for a welcome break-away quality if something large gets stuck between the fender and tire.  At times, Rans has supplied fenders with these types of stays for their bents.

Generally, I recommend riders look for designs that allow as much flexibility as possible since bents vary a lot in their geometry and do-it-your-selfers may need to manipulate off-the-shelf fenders.  At the same time, I also recommend using, at least initially, whatever a manufacturer recommends or supplies, and then make upgrade decisions from there, based on personal experience with the product.

Best,
Robert

————
Robert Matson
copyright 2010 Robert Matson
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Urban commuting recumbents: best models and requirements

I specialize in selling ‘bents for urban commuting and touring. Individual rider requirements may vary outside the NYCity Metro area. These are my notes about the challenges bent riders face here and the models I currently recommend.

NYC urban commuters and tourers tell me they need:

a) Even if heading out of the city, riders need to traverse 5 – 25 miles of city traffic before hitting suburban roads, so good stability in stop, slow and go traffic is important (a low center of gravity helps);

b) many touring trips begin with taking the regional light rail (LIRR, Metro North, NJ Transit, Path, subway, etc.), so bents MUST meet rail restrictions, e.g., must be less than 80 inches in length (no long- or medium- wheelbase), and you must avoid getting grease on fellow passengers;

c) bents need to fit in apartments, around sharp corners, into an elevator, or up the stairwell of a 19th century brownstone (should be narrow, light, short);

d) bikes should be lockable and not too vandalize-able;

e) bike geometry should position your head high enough for drivers to see you in normal traffic (a mere safety flag isn’t good enough);

f) high-racers in a “non-twitchy” geometry can work for riders who are comfortable “hobby horseing” in traffic and are able to get their feet on and off the pedals quickly, though many prefer the lower bottom bracket and lower center of gravity of 26x20s and 20x20s;

g) a tight turning radius is vital to negotiate corners at low speed (so the stretch LWB bents aren’t great);

h) chain tubes or other chain protection is a plus, not only to keep your clothes clean but to avoid getting grease on fellow train riders;

i) easy to mount accessories like lights, racks, fenders and mirrors;

j) fat tires should fit fine.

Some cities’ buses have bike racks which can’t handle ‘bents. NYC buses don’t have bike racks, so it doesn’t affect us.

City commuters seem to generally prefer these bents:

HP Velotechnik Street Machine Gte

HP Velotechnik Grasshopper fx

– HP Velotechniks (Street Machine Gte and Grasshopper fx) lead the pack for replacing a car and for riding to work. I like the GHfx because it folds and is designed to take on planes, trains and buses, but prefer a SMGte for long trips. While plenty high in traffic, the GHfx’s head height is about 4″ lower than a SMGte and slightly more aerodynamic.

Since both the GHfx and the SMGte were specifically designed to handle urban commuting and touring, they do it well. What’s great: chain tubes; chain ring covers; fat tires and studded winter tires fit fine; full suspension; high quality racks/fenders/kickstands; mesh and body link seats are cable-locked; easy to install dynamo lighting systems; excellent fairing options.  And best of all, stylish design and a full choice of colors.  And that is important in NYC.

Cons: expense, so a bit painful to lock on the street; some vandalize-able parts. Basically, the HPVs are perfect urban commuting bikes, esp. with secure bike parking.

– Rans’ V-Rex and Rocket are nearly perfect with the Rocket better than the V-Rex because a) it is smaller, b) studded winter tires fit along with fenders and c) the Flip-It with Ahead makes the front fork and wheel lockable.  It’s too bad that the Rocket is out of production (at the time of writing).  Any that remain in stores should be a good deal since they’ll be used and/or amortized.

Rans has always been superb in its design and support for loaded touring, so it’s natural for their ‘bents to work well for commuting. The V-Rex and Rocket easily take racks and fenders and both frames with mesh seats are easy to lock. Points for being steel and strong. Studded tires won’t fit with fenders on rear wheel of V-Rex. Neither bike is terribly expensive, so there’s less heartache in locking it up on the street. Some but not all vandalizable parts can be secured (e.g., sprint braces, seats).  The Flip-it build is nice and narrow, making it easier to manage the bike inside buildings.

On the down side, wheel upgrades are needed to handle potholes, cobblestones, old rail lines, etc. at normal speed. V-Rex fork/stem not lockable. New riders may find the Rocket relatively unstable at crawling speed. Current design for V-Rex makes for a wide, real-estate-hog of a bike.

– Volae’s Tour takes first prize for bang for the buck, but for a few hundred more, the Century is the better bike. Both are superb frames with excellent stock components and chic and stylish designs.

Being stick frames, they’re a bit hard to lock, so we designed and imported a high quality locking solution so carbon seat, wheels, stem and fork can be secured. If one prefers the mesh seat, it’s easily cable lockable (and rather comfortable). Rack solutions are good: we’ve figured out how to fit the excellent Tubus racks onto Volaes, but riders can also use a standard Old Man Mountain rack. TerraCycle makes a good under seat rack. Standard fenders fit fine. We custom-specced an Urban Century(tm) specifically for urban use (with strong wheels, puncture-“proof” tires, and a travel frame for easier storage and travel.

Truly, I love Volaes because they’re high quality and a pleasure to ride and behold. I only wish for more wheel space in the frame so we could safely install studded tires along with fenders for riding in snow. They’re particularly apt for city streets for several reasons: elegant but not flashy, safe and high quality components, light and thin and easy to carry up stairs, good head height on streets, perfect rear-view mirror mounting. Due to the numerous size variations, riders get a bike that fits like a glove. Good TerraCycle fairings are available. In sum, they’re darn nice bikes.

The only downsides might be:
Not many skilled dealers besides New York City Recumbent Supply and fairly extensive dealer training is required to provide proper fitting.
Generally designed for a lighter payload. Rider plus luggage has to be less than 250 pounds.

Cruzbike Sofrider.
I’ve been positively impressed by the models from Cruzbike. The Sofrider, in particular, is a good city bike due to its low cost, good speed, tight turn radius, full suspension, room for fat tires, and easy lockability. For a rack, use the Old Man Mountain Sherpa. See my blog entry about how to install it. Ordinary Planet Bike fenders work, but they provide incomplete coverage; for total coverage, use two rear fenders. It’s good to have a city bike that looks unimpressive, and the Sofrider fits that bill.  In fact, I get more questions about whether I made the bike myself and fewer awkward questions about how much the bike costs. I’ve heard rumors of on-line complaints that the front tire slips when powering up steep inclines on a wet road. I live in a hilly area of Brooklyn, and I ride in the rain, and don’t experience terrible slipping. I’ve solved this, in part, by installing a fat front tire, learning to ride with steady constant pressure, moving my body weight towards the front when starting on a hill. When none of those work, you can walk the bike up the hill but I think I’ve only had to do this once. (No commuter will be disqualified for touching the ground with his or her feet.)

Any of these bikes will pay for themselves within a year, when used for daily commuting, based on daily savings plus resale value.

Ranking:
1. HP Velotechnik Grasshopper fx
2. HP Velotechnik Street Machine Gte
3. Cruzbike Sofrider
4. Cruzbike Quest
5. Volae Tour

“Best City ‘Bent for the Buck” is probably the Cruzbike Sofrider.

If a person has $3,000 – 5,000 to invest in a ‘bent to replace their car, an HP Velotechnik is the way to go.  Looking to spend less?  Go with a Cruzbike.

Best,
Robert

————
Robert Matson
copyright 2009 Robert Matson
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Does a long chain get dirtier than a short chain?

A diamond frame rider named Joel posted the following message on Peter White’s Google Bicycle Lifestyle forum:
>> I have always been curious about the long chain on most recumbants.
>> To this decidedly-not-an-engineer that seems a possible source of
>> maintenance issues.
>> Are any recumbant designers experimenting with the drive shafts that >> have been popping up on bikes of late? Is this even an issue?
(Photo: Timo Sairi’s shaft drive prototype recumbent — with smile. www.pyora.fi)
The following was my reply on the forum:
First of all, please understand that, like diamond frame (DF) bikes, recumbent models vary in quality and have a wide variety of designs. Some of the manufacturers’ engineers have addressed the problems mentioned, and some have not.
First of all: ‘bent designs
There are two basic ‘bent designs: long wheelbase and short wheelbase. I only work with short wheelbase ‘bents since a) they are the best adapted to the widest range of uses and b) the manufacturers I choose to work with only make short wheelbase models and c) I like them better.
Chain wear:
My belief is that chain metal experiences wear when it moves and hinges to pass over cogs, and no additional wear as it moves through the air. ‘Bents use identical gearing systems to uprights, with identical cogs and pulleys except that many ‘bents also use one or two guide wheels — called idlers — to maintain chainline and tension. It seems that, overall, long chains wear slightly slower than short chains since any given link is passing over a cog fewer times over a 100 meters of travel distance.
Accumulation of chain dirt:
It seems to me that dirt is introduced onto a chain from the bike’s own tires, from other nearby vehicles and from the wind. It is logical to believe there is a saturation point for dirt on any given link on any given chain; once a chain link is covered with dirt, no more dirt will accumulate.
Naturally, a 2 meter chain saturated with dirt will be hold more weight in dirt over it’s length than a 1 meter chain saturated with dirt. However, I would anticipate that each dirt-saturated chain link is saturated with the same amount of dirt.
Chain care:
It’s the same on ‘bents and DFs. A 2 meter chain will have more dirt over its length than the one meter chain; so a two-rag cleaning job on a ‘bent will be (roughly) a one-rag job on a DF.
Protecting the chain from dirt and your pant legs from the dirty chain:
The most common way to protect the chain from dirt, as on DFs, is with fenders. Everyone knows about those.
Specific to ‘bents, the next most common chain protection is the chain tube, best implemented by HP Velotechnik (HPV). HPV’s chain tube is intended to protect the rider’s legs from chain dirt, to slow down the accumulation of dirt on the chain, and to help prevent chain dirt from getting on the clothes of fellow passengers when you take the bike on a train (or ferry, etc.). This photo from the HPV website shows the chaintubes.
Dutch manufacturer Flevobike, with their Green Machine ‘bent, follows the Dutch tradition of attempting to design a low- or no-maintenance bike. They fully enclose the chain. It’s an intriguing solution since they seem to be using the chain-protecting case as a structural element. But it’s also about 50% more costly than a similarly specced HPV. The metal chain cover appears almost certainly to be structural, efficiently serving a dual-role.
If the bike is not an HPV, I prefer to fit it with fenders, at minimum. With the HPVs, the chain tubes come standard.
Alternatives to Chains:
Shaft drive:
Timo Sairi (www.pyora.fi), a Finnish architect has designed a shaft-drive ‘bent, not yet in production. One can see it here. We do not think the rider is Mr. Sairi.
More info. http://www.recumbent-gallery.eu/finnish-recumbent-with-shaft-drive/
Gates carbon:
While the most promising cost-effective solution would be Gates Carbon Belt Drives, there are numerous design challenges involved in having a long belt drive. At Interbike 09, Gates belts were shown as tandem timing chains, so we are hopeful to see them on a bent some day.
Imagination Drive:
An entirely maintenance-free and weightless solution that is available everywhere for free.

All best,
Robert

————
Robert Matson
copyright 2009 Robert Matson
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HP Velotechnik. Yes it’s true. Lower prices.

Demonstrating the best of business ethics and their deep commitment to cycling, at Interbike 2009, HP Velotechnik announced a slight price DECREASE for 2010.

Example:
2009 StreetMachine Gte, base price: $2,590 (USD)
2010 StreetMachine Gte, base price: $2,390 (USD) (With the same specs on both bikes. _NO_ component downgrade.)
This is extraordinary.

Generally, in all areas of business, whether it’s bikes or sofas or soilant green or milk, every year, manufacturers increase prices to reflect inflation on raw materials, labor, real estate, shipping, etc. To gain marketshare, factories sometimes choose to NOT raise prices one year, just to slightly undercut their competitors.

With foreign companies, who may benefit from fluctuating currencies, they can get “secret” double benefits from better exchange rates along with the typical annual increase. No one would have thought twice if HPV raised prices 4% due to inflation. Or left prices static to encourage customers to buy their products. However, what THEY did, was LOWER prices on some key models.

Why? Their explanation: the better exchange rate between Euros and dollars meant they were making a bit more money on each bike sold. And they’re willing to pass back that benefit to the people who buy and ride their bikes. In other words, quite simply, they lowered prices BECAUSE THEY COULD without impacting product quality.

What other business in the modern world would extend themselves in a similar way?

Does that mean they may raise prices again if the dollar strengthens? Possibly. Either way, 2010 is a good year for buying HPV products.

The economy is tough in The States right now. Not many of us have $3000 or so to spend on an HP Velotechnik. However, the overall cost/benefit of buying a high quality bike remains in favor of the bike: overall, the bike will save you substantial amounts of money.

There is no better time than now to get rid of the costly burden of a car — or the extra car — along with your gym membership — and replace them both with a Street Machine or Grasshopper*.

You’ll save time that you’d otherwise spend on your commute plus the time spent at the gym. You’ll save money on car costs. You’ll be more fit. Your heart will be healthier. And you’ll be a lot happier. I can almost guarantee it.

* I do continue to think Volae’s are darn good too, and an incredible value.

————
Robert Matson
copyright 2009 Robert Matson
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Former Asheville, NC firefighter gets 4 months for shooting cyclist

Only 4 months?!?

http://www.mountainx.com/news/2009/former_asheville_firefighter_gets_4_months_for_shooting_cyclist

Saved by the helmet??

Cripes,
Robert

————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply (TM)
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2009 Robert Matson

Robert Matson New York City Recumbent Supply (TM) The Innovation Works, Inc. http://www.NYCRecumbentSupply.com copyright 2009 Robert Matson

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15 Cities for People Who Hate Driving and Long Commutes

15 Cities for People Who Hate Driving and Long Commutes:
Where to go if you don’t want to spend a lot of time behind the wheel

From: US News and World Report
By MATTHEW BANDYK
Posted: November 11, 2009

Includes wise-cracks from yours truly. Ranked in order of non-car commuters.

Cambridge, Mass.
Average commute time: 24 minutes Non-car commuters: 58 percent
-> Of course.

Pittsburgh
Average commute time: 23.1 minutes Non-car commuters: 33.5 percent
-> Nice city. Good hills. Great architecture. Eat at Savoia’s great Italian restaurant Dish Osteria.

Boulder, Colo.
Average commute time: 18.4 minutes Non-car commuters: 30.6 percent
-> Let me at it.

Davis, Calif.
Average commute time: 20.3 minutes Non-car commuters: 28.7 percent
-> From 35 years ago, remember it being beautiful with a wonderful aquarium. I’d go.

Ann Arbor, Mich.
Average commute time: 18.4 minutes Non-car commuters: 27.5 percent
-> Veni, vidi… and attended college. Town with great core. Too bad about the sprawl.

New Haven, Conn.
Average commute time: 21.6 minutes Non-car commuters: 27.3 percent
-> Got Crime?

Chapel Hill, N.C.
Average commute time: 20.1 minutes Non-car commuters: 26.2 percent
-> Frequently, when a NYCity driver is dangerous and reckless, the car will turn out to have a North Carolina license plate. Maybe all these drivers hail from Raleigh-Cary, no. six on the 2007-08 listof the most dangerous cities for walking and not from Chapel Hill, but I’ve learned to steer clear of all cars with NC license plates. So, I’d have to learn not to hate 73.8% of the commuters in Chapel Hill. Might be difficult. Sorry. Learn to drive.

Minneapolis
Average commute time: 21.9 minutes Non-car commuters: 24.2 percent
-> Got cold. Got art and culture. Got snow. I think I’d like it.

Portland, Ore.
Average commute time: 24.1 minutes Non-car commuters: 22.7 percent
-> Yeah, yeah, yeah. I’m sure it’s great. But I’m getting sick of hearing about how great it is.

Ames, Iowa
Average commute time: 15.3 minutes Non-car commuters: 22.6 percent
-> I’m sure it’s nice, but I’ve never been there. Here is the webpage with the City of Ames’ Urban Deer Management Hunting Rules. Presumably you can buy a firearm when you get there. Please sell it before you come back to New York.

Madison, Wis.
Average commute time: 18.7 minutes Non-car commuters: 21.9 percent
-> “F. ’em Bucky.” I like WI people.

Honolulu
Average commute time: 23 minutes Non-car commuters: 21.7 percent
-> Who could say noo to Honolulu?

Provo, Utah
Average commute time: 16.2 minutes Non-car commuters: 21.4 percent
-> Home/grave (?) of Word Perfect. Probably nice. Would I have to be Mormon?

Eugene, Ore.
Average commute time: 16.9 minutes Non-car commuters: 20.7 percent
-> I think I’d like it for a while, but would find it small. However, I do like Oregon.

Syracuse, N.Y.
Average commute time: 16.3 minutes Non-car commuters: 20.1 percent
-> If it ain’t NYC, it ain’t NY. Just kidding. It’s probably stupendously beautiful.

Enjoy cycling.
– Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply (TM)
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2010 Robert Matson

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Warm Clothes for Winter Biking

The cold fall has made me want to write a few notes about wind chill and staying warm while riding during the cold months.

What I’ve done is seek out winter clothing favored by winter rock/ice climbers, backpackers and sometimes cross-country skiiers, who require: lightweight, flexible, often thin, zero-failure, temperature adaptability, somewhat abrasion resistant, highly adaptable, warm damp or dry. Also, climbers/backpackers require gear that is smooth on the back (for backpacks), so good cross-adaptability to ‘bent riders.

Generally, easy-to-find commercial bike and running gear rates well on the fashion scale, but not on the outdoor-comfort scale. By this, I mean: it tends to look great and be okay if you’re out for a few hours; but it tends to be heavy for the warmth it provides and often (nearly always) will sacrifice temperature performance for appearance.

And although I’ll sometimes wear running clothes while biking in the summer heat, runners (like X-country skiiers) generate a lot of body heat and sweat with comparatively little activity-added wind-chill, making winter running gear less than ideal for cycling. Cyclists, on the other hand, generate a lot of windchill without generating much body heat.

For backpackers and climbers, in the woods/on the cliffs, no one cares how you look, so performance rules (unless you’re on a date); for cyclists, on the roads, fashion seems to rule — maybe because everyone sees you.

Major outdoor equipment manufacturers — including, but not limited to — The North Face, Mountain Hardware, Gore, Outdoor Research, Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS), REI, and others — have clothing with “wind stopper” technology. In my exp., the windstoppers have provided excellent warmth even in situations with a high windchill.

The best place in NYC for this gear is Tent and Trails on Park Place in Manhattan. It’s a true mountaineering store, unbelievably, in NYC. However, EMS in SoHo has good wind-stopping fleeces and shells at good prices. The Rivendell MUSA pants are good wind-stopping (as well as good for cycling), but are bulky to pack.

Since, for backpacking/camping, you want gear that serves multiple purposes, e.g., if it gives warmth, even better if it also stops wind, it’s ideal for cycling. The Merino clothing companies (e.g. Ice Breaker, Smart Wool, Ibex) get close to this with tight weaves, but at some point, wool falls behind the best technical gear for the outer layers. For the base/inner layers, merino wool is the best, hand down.

Another key for staying warm during winter riding (for me) is to try both to stop the wind and maximize the warmth at the extremities — hands/wrists, feet, head/neck — I’ll maybe go to excess here. But it’s the lightest and “smallest” way to get body warmth.

I struggle with cold feet. At this time, I’m riding with 15-degree insulated hiking/climbing boots. What I like about them is they are lightweight and designed to fight windchill and cold air and protect the user in extreme conditions (as in “stay warm or die”). If I must wear bike shoes with cleats and it’s very cold, I do two things. First, I use chemical “toe warmers” (and carry along extras). Second, I seal off any holes on the bottom of the shoe (bent riders break the wind with the bottoms of their feet) and also try to create warmth in the insole. So, I use tape to cover the holes from attaching the cleats. An insulating insole is great. I also cut up an emergency “solar blanket” (a.k.a. “space blanket”) and wrap it around my feet to help keep the heat in/cold out. I’m not a fan of the cycle-shoe covers or neoprene I’ve tried. Maybe I haven’t yet found the good ones. They seem either to inadequately block the wind or else make my feet sweat and then freeze.

My favorite places are:

Online:

Backpacking Light (Rivendell for backpackers in terms of sophistication and knowledge level, but they count grams over durability and the gear is for EXPERIENCED users; know your limits.)
Moosejaw
(But maybe don’t get the packages delivered to work because they enjoy having fun with the recipient, e.g., with big kiss and heart stickers on the outside.)
The North Face
EMS
REI

Off-Line:

Tents and Trails in NYC

For beginner- to intermediate-level quality, I strongly recommend REI or EMS. They often have good bargains and are a great source for buying a full kit of gear, even if it may not be what you ultimately want after you’ve gained experience. The best gear can be rather expensive, and I believe it’s best to understand what and why you need something better, than to just spring — for example — for the world’s best coat without realizing that actually you needed to buy the world’s best base layer.

Scarf not. Please don’t wear a scarf while you cycle, lest you get it caught in your wheel or on a passing car. If you need something around your neck, wear a neck gaiter. For more about ill-fated scarf wearing (and the beginnings of modern dance), remember Isadora Duncan.

All best,

Robert

————

Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply (TM)
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2009 Robert Matson

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Coordinating tires and rims.

Questions arise about tire sizing. For the recumbents I ride and sell, fortunately, diameters are pretty straightforward; the 26 and 20 inch wheels are well-established standard sizes.
Rim widths are another matter. Questions are bound to arise because recumbent manufacturers frequently supply bikes with narrow rims and relatively wide tires. That’s alright as long as the components are high quality and in top condition. But a rider who tries to cheat the system, by using lower quality rims or tires, or not replacing worn out rims or tires — is risking an equipment malfunction and possible injuries.
Volae Centuries and Tours usually come with Alex DA 16 rims (with roughly a 16mm internal dimension) and generally mount 1.35″ tires on them. Though that’s pushing the capacity of the rim (in the opinion of a Velocity wheel builder I spoke with at Interbike) with high quality rims and tires (e.g., Alex or Velocity), and high-pressure tires at full pressure, riders are likely to be okay. The NYC Urban Centuries comes with a stronger-than-stock wheel build, with Velocity rims and Schwalbe Marathon tires.
The stock HP Velotechnik Grasshoppers and Street Machines also use Alex DA 16s but mount 1.5″ Schwalbe Marathon Racers. Again, this is okay only as long as the rims and tires are in top condition.
If you are thinking about trying different tires, for example mounting Marathon Winters for the icy months, be sure the tires match the capabilities of your rims. In the case of Winters, the main issue will arise when you run the tires at low pressure in order to have maximum traction on icy roads. With the DA 16s, you could be asking for trouble — the tire may come off the rim while you’re riding.
Sheldon Brown has a good page on the subject of matching rims and wheels. It includes an extremely useful chart from cyclist Georg Boeger. This will assist you in making intelligent and safe decisions about fitting tires on your rims.
http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
Enjoy,
Robert

————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply (TM)
The Innovation Works, Inc.
http://www.NYCRecumbentSupply.com
copyright 2009 Robert Matson

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Where is my bike made? (Or, who actually made my bike?)

Where is my bike made? Or, who actually made my bike?
A very interesting article about the originations of bikes, posted to the Prospect Park Peloton Yahoo group by Andy Feldman.
http://allanti.com/page.cfm?PageID=328
Focused on diamond frames, but eye-opening nevertheless. Readers note: you can be sure your Volae is made by Waterford Precision Cycles, in Wisconson, USA.
– Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply (TM)
The Innovation Works, Inc.
http://www.NYCRecumbentSupply.com
copyright 2009 Robert Matson
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Q. How can I stop getting grease on my calf and pant leg?

Q. How can I stop getting grease on my calf and pant leg?

The other week, a trike-riding customer asked me to keep a look out for something that would let her ride her trike without getting grease on her leg or pant leg.
Her objective, as she described it, sounded extraordinarily familiar. “I just want to be able to put on my work clothes and ride to work, without getting grease all over my legs.” In fact, almost every customer asks the same thing. Diamond frame (or upright, “head-first”) commuters have the Dutch- or Danish-style fully enclosing chain covers as an option. What do we have?

Recumbent riders have chain tubes. Essentially, these are low-friction plastic pipes that cover part of the chain. If positioned near the cranks, not only do they keep grease off one’s pantleg, but they also help keep that long chain clean. However, while third party chain tubes are available, few recumbents are designed to readily accept them. I have had customers for whom the aftermarket solutions did not work as well as hoped.

Who else but HP Velotechnik would make a chain tube system that works perfectly? Since HPVelos are optimized for commuting and touring, it’s natural that they would make an excellent chain tube mounting system. In fact, their frames include special braze-ons to enable secure mounting of the chain tubes, which are attached via metal springs on the tubes. The chain tubes themselves are made of special high-quality, low-friction material. That the tubes are integral to the bike’s design helps explain why the system works so well.

The chain tubes mount securely and are designed for the natural chain line. The top and bottom tubes terminate close to the chain ring in a way that neither interferes with gear changing nor allows your pant leg to get dirty. Honestly, it’s amazing.

Best,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply (TM)
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2009 Robert Matson